258x Filetype PDF File size 1.20 MB Source: koreascience.kr
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An Analysis of the Apparel CAD System Regarding the Dart Manipulation
Function in Bodice Patterns
ઁҮܨҗ
ъࢎഘࢶ୍
ࠗҮࣻ ӂࣼ൞
Dept. of Clothing and Textiles, Cheju National University
Lecturer : Seon Cheol Hong
Associate Professor : Sook Hee Kwon
䝻ݾ ର䝼
Ǎࢲۿ ǐѾۿ߂ઁ
ǎোҳߑߨ߂ର ଵҊޙ
ǏোҳѾҗ߂֤
The following research compares the two apparel systems that are used in Korean colleges, Gerber and PAD, by
analyzing the advantages and disadvantages of their Dart-related functions in the pattern construction process.
The results are as follows.
1. Regarding transformation methods, the Gerber system was able to use pivot method, while the PAD system
was able to use both pivot method and slash methods. in other issues, the PAD system was not able to synthesize
more than two Darts, and only showed differences for other functions. On the other hand, the diamond-shape Dart
and diagonal Dart could be produced only in the PAD system, while curvy shaped Dart could not be produced in
either system.
2. The change in side lines due to the change of Dart width only occurred in the PAD system, while the change in
Dart length only occurred in the Gerber system; both systems need improvement.
3. As for the pattern outer line connection capability, which is a Dart automatic transformation function, both
systems showed unnatural shapes which need to be corrected.
4. We first constructed a Dart shape composition chart according to the number of Darts. Based on this, we
examined whether they have appropriate shapes. Among single-Darts, the Gerber system had an inappropriate,
outer-line shape for Underarm Dart and Center Front Dart, and among two-Darts, it was inappropriate for Side and
Waist Dart.
ઁয(Key Words): (Dart), যಁۡ दझమ(Apparel system), PADदझమ(PAD system), Ѣߡदझమ(Gerber
system)
Corresponding Author: Seon Cheol Hong, Department of Clothing and Textiles, Cheju National University, 66 Jejudaehakno, Jeju-si, Jeju-do, Korea
690-756 Tel: 82-64-754-3532 Fax: 82-64-725-2591 E-mail: texhong@naver.com
–91–
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–92–
ഘࢶ୍
1.ಕ
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धѱಁఢഥߑधҗಁఢѐߑधоߑधҗ ীೠਗഋ৻ҘࢶোѾഋకܳಣоೞف߸ӡ
ӝࠄӝמز
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࢚٣ੋಁఢࢸ҅दࢎਊغ ӝળਵ۽ೞৈݏز߸ഋӝמਸਊೞৈ
ઁ ର ೠҴੋ ੋࣻઑࢎ ࢎসࠁҊࢲ _ࣁ ৈ ಣӐ ױਤDN
ࠗਤ ӡ ࠗਤ ӡ ࠗਤ ӡ
ࠗ ਤ ӡ ࠗ ਤ ӡ ࠗ ਤ ӡ
оढلۨ খबӡ যӵց࠺
لۨ೦ݾ ೲܻلۨ ӡ೦ݾ ١ӡ ց࠺೦ݾ ԙࢎࣻಣӡ
়ؕلۨ ݾԙӡ ѹ٘یখ߷ࢎӡ
ݾ߃لۨ ়ؕӡ ѹ٘یٍ߷ࢎӡ
ܐਗӝࣿળਗ
ઁରೠҴੋੋࣻઑࢎࢎসࠁҊࢲ
–93–
ഘࢶ୍
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–94–
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